BSA Block - Cutting Three Bodies

I'm trying to stay true to our council rules by using the pine blocks "from the box." Has anyone tried cutting 2-3 bodies from the same block? I'm sure the only accurate way to 100% accurately measure, drill is to cut and plane the bodies even. However I've used a belt sander and had pretty good success smoothing the new bodies out but certainly not as accurate as planing. I can get a suprisingly even surface that should be good enough get good drills off of. Has anyone else done this succuessfully without a planer?

 

I've done this successfully (at the scout level; I haven't done anything successfully at the league level. ) As long as your rears are aligned with one another, you should be good.

 

I've made 3 blanks from a BSA block and sanded it by taping a piece of sandpaper onto a piece of granite tile. I checked its flatness using The Block. One of the blanks worked well at the scout level. The rest I messed up during a build.

 

I've cut blanks from scout blocks & used my belt sander. I can get them dead flat & the same thickness front to back (I use calipers). I'll use sand paper on a flat surface to fine tune the flatness. If you're good with the sander, it can be done.

 

You know I wondered after cutting my kids cars out of the blocks if I should let the other little cars in those blocks that were screaming to be cut be let loose. All that wood...

 

When I find a good square scout block I'll use a band saw to cut a 5/16" blank from the top and from the bottom of the block, but I usually throw away the center section.

 

This is what I do as well. I don't try to use the center section.

 

I can see how it can lead to inconsistencies. But the top and bottom have a pretty good chance of proving a straight enough blank to work with. Good to know.

 

I think with enough material with which to work I could sand the middle even and flat. I'm not sure I would consider it a premium A+ body but it would be close. Finding a premium block among all the scout blocks is hard enough as it is.

 

If you have a table saw, it's easy to slab off bodies with a simple jig.


The rip fence in this pic is not adjusted for this jig, the edge of the jig by my left thumb goes against the fence and you adjust it to rip the thickness that you want. Sacrificial clamp strip on top protects the clamp pads. Just keep re-clamping the remainder of the block and cut it. Keeps your fingers away from the blade even on the thin stock.

I made this out of scrap MDF a few years ago with the intention of trying it out to see how it worked and then making a finished one out of Baltic Birch but I never got around to making the new one. Never enough time! LOL Someday I will!

 

Nice!! Looks exactly like something I would do....or have done.

 

I respect the guys that have really good wood working skills. I just don't have good finishing skills. I wasted a lot of wood trying to make blanks. I bought a porter cable planer at Lowes that was on sale. Life is so much better.

 

I've been putting the full block in my CNC router, cutting the ladder, then ripping off the cut part on my table saw.

I don't get to crazy, and have to sand the top until I get it thin enough to make me happy.
I could get 3 cars out of 1 block.

 

Yep..,,bandsaw and a belt sander.....easy peazy

 

My jig is similar.
I first cut my pockets with a CNC router (on bottom side of car).
Then I put the block, in my jig, with the bottom side facing the jig; essentially cutting the top of the car off.
The main difference is that I bought an adjustable slide that rides in the T-track of my table saw, and mounted it to the bottom of my jig. It took a little planning to get it right, but it cuts the car body the exact thickness, every time, without messing with the fence. I think I can get 3 bodies out of one block.